The Dirty Stall

Wild Rocket

Posted on: May 3, 2015

Wild Rocket has been around in the Singapore food scene for quite some time now, having opened back in 2005 by lawyer-turned-chef Willin Low. His ‘ModSin‘ cuisine, short for modern Singaporean cuisine, has since garnered him many distinctions and awards for good food.

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I visited Wild Rocket a long time back, maybe about 6 years ago and I quite liked it, so I thought it would be a good time to revisit Wild Rocket since they had just renovated the restaurant in 2014 and revamped the menu as well. Something new is their omakase tasting menu, which nets you a seat at the counter so that Chef Willin can explain his dishes to you.

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Hokkaido scallop carpaccio with chye poh, kombu flakes and truffle infusion. Chef Willin’s take on an atas chwee kueh, and it was really good – very smooth with the right touches of umami.

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Thai-inspired pomelo salad with frozen coconut dressing. This dish is a bit of a mind-bender, because of the frozen coconut milk making the whole dish remind me of nasi lemak, and yet all the Thai flavours coming through to make the whole dish a cacophony of familiar tastes.

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Aburi minced otoro and tang hoon that’s been cooked with iberico lard. Chef Willin says this is his version of bak chor mee – the fat of the land meets the fat of the sea. I don’t even have to tell you how good this is – from the ingredients used, you’d already know.

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Noodles cooked in prawn stock, drizzled with lobster oil, mixed with ebi-miso (prawn brains), and finally topped with a giant grilled tiger prawn. Chef Willins says that when he was a student overseas, most Asian restaurants there would have a dish called Singapore noodles, which of course doesn’t exist here.

So he decided to call that mythical dish his own, and fuse it with his take on Hokkien mee. I love anything with prawns and this dish is packed to the max with prawn flavours. The tiger prawn was also ridiculously huge.

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Cha ye dan (tea leaf egg), shredded Savoy cabbage with dried shrimp, and grilled codfish. Not the most interesting dish in the omakase but the codfish was grilled to perfection!

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Crab cake on salted egg yolk paste. The crab cake is made from 100% Vietnamese spanner crab with no fillers, and rests on a bed of salted egg yolk paste. Something simple, tasty, and reminiscent of the salted egg yolk crabs we order at seafood zi char restaurants.

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48 hour sous vide beef short rib wrapped in chee cheong fun with black bean sauce. This was one of the weaker dishes, maybe it needed a stronger flavour profile. The short rib was pretty good though.

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Pineapple sorbet with chilli padi powder, mint flakes, and soy sauce crystal salt. A very modern update on a classic Singaporean way of eating pineapples from the 70s – they used to eat slices of pineapple with chilli padi and dipped in soy sauce. And it’s one hell of a palate cleanser!

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Matcha sugee cake with pure coconut ice-cream. This is the traditional Eurasian sugee cake, made from semolina flour but mixed with matcha to cut the richness of the cake. It’s also typically served at Eurasian weddings.

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The omakase at Wild Rocket is certainly a wonderful trip down memory lane, remixing familiar tastes in surprising ways, so it’s definitely worth visiting to try it.

However, considering that only about half the dishes in the omakase have changed after 1 year, you might have to wait several more years to see if the variety of dishes undergoes a complete change.

2 Responses to "Wild Rocket"

Everything looks so good!

Haha yeah, the omakase is definitely worth trying out! Though I don’t think he changes the dishes as often as an “omakase” would indicate, but my guess is that’s probably because lots of experimentation is involved.

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